The Middle East, including North Africa, has always held a mystical fascination for me. Lands so old and so long disputed, a way of life in many ways frozen in time, a mish-mash of ancient and modern, the birthplace of three of the world’s major religions.

I wish I could provide general advice on things like opening times, transportation, level of service, and degree of English use in the Middle East, but every country makes its own rules in these areas and more. What you will find across the region is delicious food, stark desert beauty, and resilience to living in an often-harsh climate developed over generations.

Be mindful of local standards of dress and behavior of the country you’re in, both as a sign of respect and for your own safety. Women only need to cover their heads with a scarf in Saudi Arabia and Iran, where it’s mandated by law. In other countries, conservative dress (e.g., no tank tops, shorts, or very short skirts) is strongly recommended.

In Gulf countries, it’s common for businesses to close for a few hours in the afternoon, when it’s hottest, and re-open in the evening, often staying open until late at night. Indeed, markets and shops can be their liveliest after dark.

Here are some posts and helpful tips based on my own experiences in the Middle East and North Africa.

That One Time When I Was Stranded in Morocco
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It was night time, quite late—that much I remember. I think there were six of us, or maybe five. Enough that we didn’t fit comfortably into the taxi on the way there. Enough that we couldn’t or didn’t all pile … Read More

Snapshot: The Tannery
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“Ho ho!” our guide called out, holding a long black umbrella with a curved handle into the air. “Ho ho! This way!” He was a thin man of medium height with a brown-and-gray beard, dressed in a long, white linen, … Read More